Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
